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spengulick
Aloha
USA
4 Posts |
 Posted - 05/13/2002 : 8:01:44 PM
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Back in 1950, I fooled around with a baritone ukulele. My son took it to college and someone sat on it. Running into "ukuleles" on the web, I ended up buying, at auction, a Johnson (new, cheap, made in China). After a week of playing it, my fingertips got very sore. I figured I could handle that, but then they became numb. My question, to any of the myriad who are more knowledgeable than I: would a better ukulele be easier on my fingers? Stores around here (Annapolis, MD) don't carry ukuleles and I don't know where to try a better one.
Thanks in advance for any input on this subject.
Spence
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Admin
Pupule
USA
4551 Posts |
Posted - 05/14/2002 : 09:07:27 AM
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Aloha Spence,
I'm no uke expert, but here's my 2 cents.
Number one, what kind of strings do you have on your uke? I have nylon strings on mine which tend to be easier on the fingers than those of my steel string guitar.
As far as quality of the instrument, I'd be more concerned with playability (i.e. the set-up). If the action is too high, it requires more pressure to press the string to the fret. That could make your fingers hurt, but perhaps it is just that you have not been playing a stringed instrument for a long time? Even though I pick up my guitar frequently, I found my fingers getting a little sore at guitar camp because I was not used to playing all day.
Does any of this help?
Andy |
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spengulick
Aloha
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 05/14/2002 : 9:10:15 PM
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Hi,Andy,
Thanks much for the reply. I have two nylon and two metal strings on my uke. Can you recommend a source of nylon D and G strings for the uke?
Re "setup": does that mean that the height of the strings can be adjusted? If so, would the cost be prohibitive (or foolish) on an inexpensive uke? I'm sorry to be so full of questions, but that seems to be the only way to get answers!
Thanks again for your courtesy in replying.
Spence
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slackkey
Lokahi
USA
280 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2002 : 04:17:59 AM
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 Aloha From Maui, Hawaii Spence!
That ukulele that you bought in 1950, the Baritone? What brand was it? By any chance, was it a Martin? Do you remember how it felt when you first played it? Wow! 1950 was a long time ago!
Anyways, you could go ahead and buy a better brand ukulele like a Martin Concert, Tenor, Standard, Baritone, or Martin 10-String Tiple. Or maybe even a Kamaka Tenor, Concert, Standard, Eight-String, or a 6-String Lili'u.
Both of these are two of the best made ones, anyone could ever own!
But, you may find out later that better does not really make your fingers feel any good, or make you play better. Of course these days there are so many other really great ukulele's being made.
I've played the ukulele since I was four years old. My first one was my Father's Martin Standard ukulele. Like what happened to your Baritone, the same thing happened to my Father's ukulele. Only it was I who sat on it accidently. He was furious! But my Grandfather told him, that it was okay, and that you watch, I would be a really good later on.
Years later in Grade School, I then had my Father's new Pride and Joy....It was a Martin Tenor Ukulele. By the time I reached 4th grade, I was really good. My Friends and I would just Jam during recess and lunchtime. During a May Day Program in 1964, we entered the Talent Contest, and won 1st. place.
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to rattle on....To be comfortable while playing an ukulele, one has to be first of all, be pleased with the type of ukulele he or she plays. It doesn't matter if it's a Martin or Kamaka or whatever one can afford. I always tell people who ask me a question such as yours regarding ukuleles, that when they go to a music store, to try and play all the ukuleles that they carry. That includes the inexpensive ones too!
Of course the more expensive ones would sound great, and feel really good. But don't buy it just because! The key is to be comfortable and pleased with the way the ukulele plays...sounds! Feel the action on the neck....When sliding chords up and down the frets....how do your fingers feel? How do your fingers feel when your picking a solo? It all comes down to how pleased, and happy you are with the instrument.
Buy one that really suits you! Try them all! Just remember....get one that feels really good to you. BTW! a 10-String Tiple is all steel-strings. The eights, six's and Baritones have steel-wound nylon base-strings. I hope I was able to shed more light to your question! Have fun playing the ukulele! I really do hope I was able to help!
slackkey 
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Akawa341
Aloha
USA
5 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2002 : 11:32:20 PM
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Aloha Spence,
I think usually a better ukulele(expensive one) is easier to play, but not always. Sometimes inexpensive one is comfortable to play. So as Slackkey mentioned the point is to find a comfortable one for you, the price doesn't matter. I have'nt tried so many ukues before,but so far Mele ukulele sounds good for the reasnable price, and Larrivee's uke sounds best to me. I hope you can find a good one soon.
Atsuhiko
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spengulick
Aloha
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2002 : 9:35:15 PM
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Slackkey and Atsuhiko,
Thank you very much for your replies. Slackkey, I don't really remember the brand of my 1950 uke. I think it may have been a Kent. It was relatively inexpensive.
I much prefer the sound of the baritone and when I croak along with it (which I do when no one is listening), the music is usually more in my range. I have been unsuccessful in finding a music store that carries baritone ukes, but you guys have inspired me to keep trying. I'm worried at the moment whether my fingertips will ever return to normal!
Spence
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Admin
Pupule
USA
4551 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2002 : 10:38:39 PM
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For more info on `ukulele, I'd like to point out the website of famous luthier Kawika Hurd. Although he is not currently accepting orders on his instruments, he provides a wealth of information at www.ukuleles.com.
Regarding setup, I would think that there could be some adjustment to the bridge or nut that might help the action. Atsuhiko - any opinion?
Last thought, I am concerned about your numb fingers. This does not go away after a little while? Do you get grooves in your fingertips after playing? I notice that when I am not too sure about a song, I press much harder than I need to. Since you have not been playing for a while, perhaps you too are pressing harder than necessary. I've seen experienced players who play with a very light touch. Keep this in mind when your playing and maybe your fingertips will be better.
Aloha,
Andy |
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slackkeylady
Aloha
35 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2002 : 02:57:59 AM
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AAAAAAAAhighhhhhhhhhhhheeeehgughghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh The Pain,,,,,,:::;'1`!!656#ysgsa/ SHEESH.AJESUMaria.......you can order a 'deluxe' instrument, you may love your sound..or the sound of someone else playing your instrument...It will be sore. Either way.......the more YOU play.....the easier it is. Yeeow Ouch! Why are there grooves in the tips of my fingers?????? Ow. Auwe!!!!!! YOU THINK THIS IS EASY O WHAT?????? I think you are onto it! Keep Going!!!!!!!!!!!!! Face It...... You Are Stoked!
Aloha Nui Loa, Slack Key Lady |
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slackkeylady
Aloha
35 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2002 : 03:01:31 AM
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P.S. The best ukes are found in Hawaii and Nazareth, Pennsylvania.........the best nukes are found in Hawaii and ......????
Aloha Nui Loa, Slack Key Lady |
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spengulick
Aloha
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2002 : 8:59:19 PM
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Once again, thank you all for taking the time to reply.
Andy, I do get grooves in my fingers, but since they're eighty one year old fingers, maybe they are not suitable for playing a ukelele It seems that if I don't press very hard, I can't get a clear tone from some strings in some positions. My finger frequently hits an adjacent string that I don't want it to.
I've about decided that the strings are too high off the fretboard and therefore require too much pressure. If I tune them low, they are not so tight and things work a lot better.
Meanwhile, I'm doing finger limbering exercises and waiting for a new set of strings to arrive. I'm also watching the auctions for an affordable upgrade to my ukulele.
I don't really know what it means, but I'd like to say something that expresses my warm feelings for you all, so.... Will "Aloha" do it?
Spence Gulick
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Pauline Leland
`Olu`olu
USA
783 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2002 : 9:49:36 PM
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Hi Spence,
I don't know much about ukuleles either, but they have bridges and nuts like a guitar. It seems to me that you could get the action adjusted lower, more comfortable. That's also assuming the neck is correctly adjusted. Resetting a neck on most guitars is very expensive. Adjusting the nut and saddle runs around $50-$75 as I recall other people saying. I think a guitar tech could do this for you. The tech is only doing 4 strings, not 6, so you should get a discount!  Best not count on it.
Lower tension strings are another way to make a guitar easier to play, as you noticed when you tuned down. I guess you're looking into that side of it for your uke.
Looking back at other threads, I see I'm agreeing with most of the other entries. With an exception - Martin guitars are usually set up too high for a beginner. I bet their ukes are too. Once again, you'll need to have it adjusted.
Take it to a tech. One way to find a good one is to look for an authorized repair shop for Martin repairs so the complete klutzes are screened out. Martin's site will give you names and addresses of nearby shops.
Good luck,
Pauline
Edited by - Pauline Leland on 05/20/2002 21:54:53 |
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Reid
Ha`aha`a
Andorra
1526 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2002 : 12:51:45 PM
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Aloha kakou,
If all you want to do is take down the nut or the saddle, you don't necessarily have to do it string slot by string slot. (Unless you have determined that the individual slots are improperly filed.)
All this goes for guitars, too. A lot of this is at www.frets.com.
1. First determine what sort of relief you have in the neck. Use a string as a straight edge: Capo at the first fret and hold the string(s) down at the fret next to the body (12 or 14, depending). If you have a truss rod, you can reduce the relief by tightening the nut or socket clockwise. I like my necks very flat and don't have more than about .016 inch relief at the top of the 7th fret (the middle). I use guitar string sections about 6 inches in length, with known diameters, as feeler guages. I never tighten or loosen more than a 1/4 turn at one time. If you have lots of relief, or, if you have backbow, and *don't* have a truss rod - run, do not walk to the nearest excellent guitar/`uke tech.
2. Determine the adequacy of the nut height by capoing, or holding the string, at (in front of) the second fret. Tap the string on top of the 1st fret. You should just hear a slight tone - that is, the string should just clear the 1st fret that way.
If it is too high equally across the strings, the bottom of the nut can be sanded. The nut should just fall out of its slot - a pressure fit. If it is glued, go to a guitar tech. Start off with 100 grit silicon carbide paper and finish with 220. Put the paper on a very flat, even surface. I use a flat, straight, piece of wood as a guide to maintain the nut at the proper, right angle, so that the bottom will be flat when sanded.
If it is too low, it can be shimmed. Paper (a nice form of wood :-), in various thicknesses, can be used to shim the nut.
3. If the nut and the relief are OK and the action is still too high for your picking style (more than 3/32 at the 12th fret for me - but lots of people like up to twice that), the saddle/bridge combo, or even whole top or body, is too high.
Determine the saddle/bridge height. With a neck relatively flat (little relief), or a straight edge that extends along the fretboard only from the neck/body joint fret (12, 14, whatever) the bottom edge of the straight edge should just meet the top of the bridge. If above, the bridge is too low; if below, the bridge is too high. Your neck has forward lean, if the latter - that is the most common problem. If you have a bridge/neck angle problem, go to an *excellent* luthier/guitar tech and talk about a neck reset. Sometimes you can have the bridge shaved if it is high enough. I don't like that, but we have had it happen. If the bridge and geometry is OK, then the saddle is the culprit. If too low, it can be shimmed just like the nut. If too high, it can be sanded. It is somewhat harder to sand properly than the nut, because it is so narrow and has a tendency to rock and round at the bottom. However, I have done it succesfully with the saddle on one of my primo guitars. If the saddle is too small to grasp securely, take it to a guitar tech.
Mostly, high action problems are caused by body shifting (especially in high or low humidity or during prolonged weather changes) and improper saddle height, but you gotta check the other stuff, too.
...Reid
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Carol
Aloha
5 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2002 : 8:55:31 PM
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I'm a rank beginner, playing a Martin soprano, and I don't think the strings are too high. Or maybe they are? It does seem to require a fair bit of pressure to get the chords sounding nice and clear, but I've been attributing that to my lack of experience and wimpy fingers.
Spence, are you still looking for nylon strings? Try this site--I think they might have what you need:
http://www.fleamarketmusic.com/
They are delightful people to deal with, too, so give them a call and see what they can do to set you up with the strings of your dreams.
Carol
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Pauline Leland
`Olu`olu
USA
783 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2002 : 9:09:34 PM
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Hi Carol,
On a guitar, if you have to press hard, then maybe something needs tweaking. If you are pressing just behind the fret, any closer and you'd be on the fret, you shouldn't have to press very hard. If you still need to press hard, then take the guitar to a tech to adjust the action.
Also, Martin is notorious for the high set-ups of their guitars.
Now, how different can a ukulele be?
Pauline |
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ukejackson
Akahai
USA
93 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2002 : 11:27:22 PM
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let me add to all the suggestions the fact that many new (given that you haven't played for decades, we'll call you new) string players expereince sensations such as you describe. it is a trick of the mind. in making music, a part of your mind and memory come into play that otherwise remain flaccid.
overall, of course, making music is one of the best things you can do for total health and well being. however, the part of your mind that you flex when you pick up a stringed instrument ( i don't know if there are like mental processes with other instruments) might be protesting. things at rest tend to stay at rest. possibly, that part of your brain connected to music making is telling you your fingers hurt so it can go back to sleep.
also, given your age, numbness in the left hand might be worth a trip to your doctor, or cardiologist if you are under the care of one. but you know that.
in any case, i assure you, with even minimal fitness, and barring arthritic or rheumetoid problems, there ain't a uke been made that has action bad enough to cause you pain.
so, if you know you're healthy, ignore the pain. keep playing. lay into it until you forget about the pain. learn songs. sing. the pain will disappear and music will takes it place. johnson makes a halfway decent starter uke.
by all means, avoid any expensive luthier work. one thing you do want to spend money on is a chromatic tuner, ($20 -- korg ca 30 is a good one) at your local music shop. having your uke in tune all the time makes it a whole lot more fun, and musical. uke on!
Uke Jackson, from farmers markets to festival mainstages, from crossroads cafes to cosmopolitan cabarets |
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ukejackson
Akahai
USA
93 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2002 : 11:33:31 PM
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oh yeah, and by all means get rid of the steel strings. buy a set of martin baritone uke strings, or another brand. not because steel strings will hurt your fingers, but because they likely will hurt the uke.
Uke Jackson, from farmers markets to festival mainstages, from crossroads cafes to cosmopolitan cabarets |
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