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Ambrosius
Lokahi
132 Posts |
 Posted - 01/18/2012 : 11:35:41 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by TerryLiberty
Mahalo, Ambrosius and Keo for your responses. I've got to tackle mine and see what I can do as soon as the "backup" saddle arrives from Seagull.
Well I just asked in my guitar shop here in the middle of nowhere, and they came up with a box full of different kinds of saddles. A piece of sandpaper flat on the table, and take it down. Measure it before you start, though. And use a caliper measuring 1/10th of a mm, not a ruler. |
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RWD
`Olu`olu
USA
850 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 11:45:29 AM
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I have advice when it comes to saddles.
I think you should look this site over and read about the different material properies he offers. There will be some valuable knowledge to be gained concerning saddles nuts and pins on this site. The guy is great at answering questions by phone or email and I have purchased from him in the past.
One of my guitars has West african--my best classical guitar( it can be seen and heard on my latest Youtube entry) and the other a custom made Mauel guitar (also on Youtube). My custom Mauel was supplied with fosilized walrus saddle & pins.
I encourage you to visit and read about the material characteristics on his site.
http://www.guitarsaddles.com/ |
Bob |
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RWD
`Olu`olu
USA
850 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 11:47:56 AM
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I have advice when it comes to saddles.
I think you should look this site over and read about the different material properies he offers. There will be some valuable knowledge to be gained concerning saddles nuts and pins on this site. The guy is great at answering questions by phone or email and I have purchased from him in the past.
One of my guitars has West african--my best classical guitar( it can be seen and heard on my latest Youtube entry) another oif my guitars is a custom Mauel that was supplied with fosilized walrus saddle & pins.
I encourage you to visit and read about the material characteristics on his site. It should clear things up a bit on the subject of what material is good to use.
http://www.guitarsaddles.com/
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Bob |
Edited by - RWD on 01/18/2012 11:51:22 AM |
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RWD
`Olu`olu
USA
850 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 12:00:53 PM
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| I forgot to mention that the saddles I chose did make a difference. |
Bob |
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TerryLiberty
Lokahi
USA
207 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 12:05:07 PM
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Bob:
What differences did you notice after changing?
Mahalo. |
Terry
Olympia, WA
Forever a haumana |
Edited by - TerryLiberty on 01/18/2012 12:05:45 PM |
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RWD
`Olu`olu
USA
850 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 1:27:30 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by TerryLiberty
Bob:
What differences did you notice after changing?
Mahalo.
I chose the West African saddle because it was described as having more "highlights" (my description) and so it did! My guitar got a little brighter after the change.
One of the side effects of that was that finger noise and squeaks are now more of a challenge--it has become more responsive on the very high end. If I decide later that I want to lessen that effect, I may choose Fossilized Walrus or Elephant Ivory. BTW, fossilized=legally recovered ivory from the earth and not from live animals--they dig it up.
So if your guitar is too bright or not bright enough, you can change that to a some degree. In my case, it took my guitar to a point that puts me on the edge of going back a bit. But then, my classical guitar stared out having a fairly decent sound before hand.
My steel string Martin sounds just fine with the factory saddle but I often think about experimenting anyway.
The saddle material will make small sonic changes but it will probably not make a cheap guitar sound like a great one.
However, small changes on a good guitar can make a very nice difference.
I would also venture a guess that even a lesser guitar will benefit from changing plastic (or tusk) to bone or the others mentioned above.
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Ambrosius
Lokahi
132 Posts |
Posted - 01/18/2012 : 10:34:59 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by RWD
I have advice when it comes to saddles.
I think you should look this site over and read about the different material properies he offers. There will be some valuable knowledge to be gained concerning saddles nuts and pins on this site. The guy is great at answering questions by phone or email and I have purchased from him in the past.
One of my guitars has West african--my best classical guitar( it can be seen and heard on my latest Youtube entry) another oif my guitars is a custom Mauel that was supplied with fosilized walrus saddle & pins.
I encourage you to visit and read about the material characteristics on his site. It should clear things up a bit on the subject of what material is good to use.
http://www.guitarsaddles.com/
Hello RWD
First and most important, - I enjoy your recordings om Youtube. I came across your channel a while back, and pick it up now and then to listen to your recordings. You has been an inspiration to me, so thanks. It is funny really, that you of all people should chime in on this subject. I'll tell you why.
In waiting for Ozzie Kotani's material, which I were recommended by this forum as an excellent introduction to Hawaiian slack-key, I downloaded some of Keola Beamer's material available online. Among them the No Ka Po of which you have an excellent recording on Youtube. No Ka Po was my very first entrance to learning and understanding Hawaiian slack-key, and the intro or very first four measures on that piece gives a series of chimes which were impossible for me to obtain, still maintaining the 3rd, 4th and 5th strings giving the legato appearance Keola Beamer describes. Not with my fingers, not on that fret-board. Not without muting the 2nd string.
I have to shoot in, that this is my first experience playing on a steel-string guitar and the narrower fret-board, compared to a classic guitar.
So the four first measures there, which you do so well, was the very reason for changing from a guitar with 1.72 nut to one with a 1.80 nut, as well as the reason for lowering the action on the present 
The site you are pointing to, - it seems to be small pieces of art. My initial thought was that would be an over-kill on a medium to low priced guitar, - and I feel that's what this thread is about, - improve play-ability and adaption to finger-style playing. On the other hand, seeing the impact replacing the factory strings did, why not try? I'd never sell the guitar with a nut or saddle like that on, though. Put the original back on, then. |
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TerryLiberty
Lokahi
USA
207 Posts |
Posted - 01/19/2012 : 05:09:28 AM
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quote:
I downloaded some of Keola Beamer's material available online. Among them the No Ka Po of which you have an excellent recording on Youtube. No Ka Po was my very first entrance to learning and understanding Hawaiian slack-key, and the intro or very first four measures on that piece gives a series of chimes which were impossible for me to obtain, still maintaining the 3rd, 4th and 5th strings giving the legato appearance Keola Beamer describes. Not with my fingers, not on that fret-board. Not without muting the 2nd string.
Ambrosius:
Sometimes coincidences amaze me. I experienced the very same thing on the very same song and ended up making the same decision you did based on this thread. Now you and I are owners of new Seagull guitars.
Regards. |
Terry
Olympia, WA
Forever a haumana |
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Ambrosius
Lokahi
132 Posts |
Posted - 01/19/2012 : 07:45:47 AM
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quote:
I experienced the very same thing on the very same song and ended up making the same decision you did based on this thread. Now you and I are owners of new Seagull guitars.
Terry, - you are my brother and a wise man |
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Nut width
