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Ukuleles in Honolulu
By JOCELYN FUJII

Its sign is obscured by plumeria trees, and the gym and the seven-story parking lot on either side of Kamaka Hawaii dwarf this unassuming storefront on the outskirts of downtown Honolulu.

But once inside, you'll be surrounded by some of the world's finest examples of the ukulele, the four-stringed, figure-eight-shaped musical emblem of Hawaii. You can buy Kamaka ukuleles elsewhere, but only here do you get a glimpse of the craftsmanship involved in transforming aged planks of acacia koa into luminous, handmade instruments. Samuel Kamaka founded the business 89 years ago, and three grandsons manage the business, which offers free tours of the factory area upstairs at 10:30 a.m. Tuesday through Friday.

But even if you're just browsing, there is plenty to see. Kamaka's nine ukulele styles, from standard (soprano) to the concert (alto), tenor and baritone, dangle on the walls. Photos of ukulele legends crowd one shelf, and a display dating back to the 1920's includes ukuleles shaped like bells and pineapples, and one rectangular model made from an 1886 cigar box.

The Portuguese introduced the braguinha, the ukulele's predecessor, to Hawaii in 1879, but the Hawaiians adopted the small four-stringed instrument and made it their own. Fascinated by the speed with which the fingers moved along the fingerboard, they named the instrument ukulele, or "jumping flea." Once a kitsch accessory, the ukulele has become a respected solo instrument. In February, when the Grammy Awards included a Hawaiian music category for the first time, Kamaka was well represented.

One of the nominees was Hookena, whose stand-up bass player, Chris Kamaka, is production manager for Kamaka. No ukulele leaves the plant without his approval. On a recent visit, he named some of the people who have bought the instruments, including Tiny Tim and George Harrison.

Fine custom ukuleles can contain more than 400 hand-fashioned pieces. If you're lucky, you will find an instrument in stock; otherwise, it takes about a month to ship an order. Prices start at $500, with a 10 percent discount at the factory. Kamaka Hawaii is at 550 South Street, at Reed Lane; (808) 531-3165. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekdays.

Copyright 2005 The New York Times Company

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