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 Costuming/hair/make-up Auana vs. Kahiko
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wcerto
Ahonui

USA
5052 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2007 :  06:33:01 AM  Show Profile
Since I am not very well schooled in hula and books I have read so far have not really touched on this topic, perhaps those who do know can share their mana`o.

I have noticed that there is a great difference in costuming and makeup and hair styles between hula auana and hula kahiko. I have noticed that kahiko, there appears to be no makeup on the wahine, their hair is worn unbound and seems to take on a part of the dance. The costuming is either pa`u or ti skirts. For auana, the ladies are so beautifully attired and a wide variety of costumes. I have seen holoku, ball gowns, even seen some performing in high heels. Their hair is usually an elaborate up-do with an amazing array of floral hair ornamentation. They appear to have very beautiful but obvious make-up application with lovely eyes and lips. In kahiko, they seem to always wear haku lei.
What is the reasoning for the differences? I suspect for kahiko, it is to be as close to pure and natural as can be.

Also regarding lei, I notice that very infrequently do wahine wear maile, kukui, mokihana or shell lei (sometimes see beautiful Ni`ihau lei).

Are there rules? If one has short hair and wants to become a serious student of hula, should one let one's hair grow?

Mahalo for any knowledge or expertise you can share.

Me ke aloha
Malama pono,
Wanda

noeau
Ha`aha`a

USA
1105 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2007 :  09:37:10 AM  Show Profile
Auana and kahiko are results of pre and post contact Hawai'i. Thus the presentation is historically influenced rather than style being the deciding factor. As for floral ornamentation I leave it to actual dancers or kumu to explain. I think kahiko is more spiritual based in the fact that most mele involve gods and godesses where auana has more involvement with modern songs and music.

No'eau, eia au he mea pa'ani wale nō.
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Hula Rider
Lokahi

USA
215 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2007 :  12:52:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit Hula Rider's Homepage
E aloha no "Wcerto" -

It is so wonderful to see people take an interest in the details!

Noeau is correct in stating that the kahiko is often more spiritual in nature, and that costuming for both is based on historical placement of the hula.

Different halau have different customs regarding hair. In my training, we do not cut our hair until after we `uniki (graduate). I have been asked by my mentor to retain my hair.

But, even hair length is subject to fashion. About 1780, very short hair bleached into designs was fashionable among graduates.

Both your lei and your costume should be appropriate to the hula you are dancing, whether kahiko or `auana.

Here is some background on costume - the person in the sarong in the first image is a woman: http://www.kaahelehawaii.com/pages/hula.htm

Here is some information on lei: http://www.kaahelehawaii.com/pages/culture_lei.htm

"Haku" is one of (as I count them) seven major styles of lei. While it is frequently seen, many other style of lei are made and worn in both kahiko and `auana. What style of lei you make is determined by the hula you will be dancing, and the materials you will use. Some materials lend themselves to some styles better than others.

Malama pono,
Leilehua

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Hula Rider
Lokahi

USA
215 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2007 :  12:54:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit Hula Rider's Homepage
Types of lei: http://www.kaahelehawaii.com/pages/culture_lei_types.htm
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wcerto
Ahonui

USA
5052 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2007 :  3:26:59 PM  Show Profile
John - right! Sometimes I know what I mean but I don't know how to say it properly, I guess. I'm glad you know what I meant to say even though I didn't say it.


Leilehua - thanks for the links. A good education for me.

Me ke aloha
Malama pono,
Wanda

Edited by - wcerto on 10/25/2007 3:27:30 PM
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