| Author |
 Topic  |
|
Pops
Lokahi
USA
387 Posts |
 Posted - 04/06/2012 : 2:51:35 PM
|
My wife and I are planning our first trip to the Big Island. Any suggestions as to what part of the island you like best?
Thanks for suggestions.
|
|
|
chunky monkey
Ha`aha`a
USA
1022 Posts |
Posted - 04/06/2012 : 3:30:58 PM
|
I'm headed there next Wednesday for our 8th time (23 total for Hawaii). Unless you have 2 weeks, don't try to see everything the first time. There are 14 separate climate zones, so about every 15 miles you'll see something different. I heartily suggest getting the bible for Big Island travel, "Hawaii, The Big Island Revealed" by Andrew Doughty and Harriet Friedman, Wizard Publications Inc. I've used that travel guide through at least three editions. There are parallel books for other islands.
Beyond that have a plan. Things can be quite far apart (driving distance). If you try to do everything, you won't enjoy anything. For a first time, I recommend staying in Kailua-Kona or Keauhou. There are tons of reasonable condos and vacation rentals. If you're well-healed, the mega resorts are fantastic. That location will give you reasonable access to the west coast (South Kona through North Kohala) for eats, beaches, live music, walmart, Costco, cultural stops and so on. It's a couple of hours to the volcanos from there and you can still get to Waimea, Parker Ranch, Hawi, Honokaa and Waipio and back in a day.
If you can blow a day drive the saddle road to Hilo for some old Hawaii and drive up the Hamakua coast to Waipio, checking out Laupahoehoe, Akaka Falls and zillions of old sugar towns and camps off the main road.
If you stay Kona side, be sure to contact Konabob for updates on what's happening. His website http://www.konaweb.com is a must. Also if you need advice about places to stay, email me and I'll share some experiences and opinions.
|
 |
|
|
blueruins
Aloha
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - 04/06/2012 : 7:07:07 PM
|
How long is your visit?
|
turn up, tune down and drop in |
|
|
|
wcerto
Ahonui
USA
5052 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 01:39:34 AM
|
If you do nothing else, go to Volcano National Park. There is nothing more awe inspiring than seeing creation. And now you can see Pele in her home, Halema`uma`u crater. Oooh, I get chicken skin thinking of it. Take a guided tour, let them do the diriving on those winding and steep roads. They take you to some great places and have the knowledge to share with you so you know what you are looking at or so you won't drive by something that is really significant. You can feel the `aina heating up beneath your feet. You can also visit a rain forest there and see wonderful things.
Have a wonderful time! |
Me ke aloha
Malama pono,
Wanda |
|
|
|
ypochris
Lokahi
USA
398 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 04:14:35 AM
|
I lived on the Big Island for over thirty years, and unlike most actually got off my ahupua'a and tried to see things.
It would be impossible to see the Big Island in a lifetime- it is so varied, access can be so difficult, and there is so much of interest. For specific advice I would have to know your interests, fitness level, and time frame at the very least.
For simply sightseing- where to drive- my favorite four areas are Waipi'o Valley, the area between Hawi and Pololu Valley, the "lower Puna coast" between Kaimu and Kapoho, and of course Volcanoes National Park. The Kohala Coast from Kailua to Hawi is desert, mostly just dry lava fields- particularly on the coast. Take the Mamalahoa Highway through Pu'uanahulu to Waimea, then the "high road" from Waimea to Hawi, and avoid this section altogether. You'll see enough of it just landing at the Kona airport.
Because of the size of the island, I would suggest not trying to make a "home base" unless you have some reason to do so. Better for you (and better for us!) is if you choose a few bed and breakfasts in various areas, depending on what you choose to do. Certainly Holualoa (above Kona) and Volcano. If you want to see flowing lava (in the distance, unless you don't mind breaking rules and a few hard miles of walking) you will want to be in Kaimu at night- Kaimu was swallowed by the volcano, but there are a few places to stay in lower Puna. Kalani Honua is nice, and fairly close, but it does cater to a mostly gay clientele so if that bothers you look for a bed and breakfast. While Pahoa is the main town in the area, and was once a fun town, it has succumbed to the drug epidemic and I don't recommend staying there. You can always drive the hour or so to a place in Hilo, or another half hour to Volcano.
There is a lot to see in Volcano National Park, so give yourself a full day at least. Volcano House is decent, if overpriced. The town of Volcano is only a few minutes away, and has a number of nice bed and breakfasts I've stayed in. It also boasts one of the best restaurants on the island, although it is pricy and I can't remember the name. I just remember a birthday I had there, with great appetizers, a fantastic duck l'orange and amazing desserts.
The saddle road is indeed a beautiful drive on the east side, although they tell you you can't take a rental car on this route. Supposedly this is because there are no services for forty miles, but more likely they don't want people witnessing the destruction the army is wreaking at Pohakuloa Army Base- between the bombing, fires they start, tanks and equipment running around, and etc. the whole saddle is trashed. Luckily most is not visible from the road. The road from Hilo to Honoka'a is another beautiful stretch of highway- I understand the most expensive 40 miles of highway in the United States. If you count the bridges you cross, you will understand why. Be sure and stop at some of the higher bridges for the view, and don't skip the "scenic route" from just north of Hilo to Pauka'a. Do, however, skip the commercial botanic garden at the beginning of the scenic route- we are boycotting them for introducing several of the most aggressive weeds on the island, and refusing to allow eradication on their property when the weeds got out of hand. The future of the island's native forests seems bleak as a result.
So much to say, so little time- for arts, Holualoa absolutely, Hawi also, a bit in Honoka'a, which is a cute plantation/Western town you have to pass through to get to Waipi'o Valley- the most traditional, most beautiful place on the island, with a large black sand beach and great surfing, but accessable nly on foot or by four wheel drive (of course there are tours- use Waipi'o Na'alapa if you want to take a horse, or the Waipi'o Valley Shuttle to drive. They can't go to the beach, but you can ask them to pick you up on a later trip and walk down.) Back on topic, the Volcano Art Center used to be the best gallery on the island, but a recent change of management resulting in firing the talented staff, and those who run it now have absolutely no taste. There are still some "legacy artists" from before, but they are rapidly transitioning from true art to crap.
The southern side of the island, from Volcano to Captain Cook, is empty and fairly desolate until you get to Na'alehu, then interestingly on the "dry" side the forest picks up but other than Ocean View, the world's largest subdivision although there are few houses, there is little population. This is sort of "dive by" country, particularly on a first visit, and it might be better to take the northern route through Waimea in one direction and the Saddle Road back, even though that requires driving back to Hilo from Volcano, duplicating part of the route.
And on and on. Beaches? Forest? Adventure? Hunting or fishing? Anything but nightlife- first of all, because I don't do nightlife, and secondly, because the island really doesn't have much. That is something you do on O'ahu or Maui. But without knowing what you are looking for, it is hard to offer much...
Have fun!
|
|
|
|
Ben
Lokahi
USA
122 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 05:19:08 AM
|
| I would add to all the wonderful suggestions above a trip to the Place of Refuge not far south of Kona. We go every time we visit the Big Island. As it was explained to me, places of refuge were destinations for people seeking to have penalties for violating a kapu lifted. The journey was arduous - even fatal for some, and just getting there was not enough. I wish I knew the words to describe the soulfulness there. |
Mālama pono
Ben |
|
|
|
Konabob
`Olu`olu
USA
928 Posts |
|
|
ypochris
Lokahi
USA
398 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 08:48:16 AM
|
| Indeed, Ben- I fully intended to get to City of Refuge when I mentioned Captain Cook, but got distracted. Absolutely worth making a side trip even if you aren't passing by. And Kealakekua Bay is simply beautiful! |
Edited by - ypochris on 04/07/2012 08:49:32 AM |
|
|
|
Pops
Lokahi
USA
387 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 3:27:56 PM
|
| Thanks all for your suggestions. We've been to Maui and Oahu a number of times and Kauai, so Big Island will be new for us. We'll go to Volcano National Park for sure, but we're still trying to figure out what part(s) of the island to stay in. We'll be there 8 days and we'd like to see some cool stuff, but I also don't want to be in the car the whole time. Any suggestions for rental cottages, etc. would be appreciated. |
|
|
|
Konabob
`Olu`olu
USA
928 Posts |
|
|
Claudia
Lokahi
USA
152 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2012 : 7:25:31 PM
|
| Go to slack key player John Keaweʻs website. (www.johnkeawe.com) Find out what night he plays at Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi. Then, that afternoon, go to Hapuna Beach State Park -the beach there is white sand and spectacular. The water so blue and sublime. When you are done at the beach, drive up the coast to Hawi and have dinner at Bamboo, while hearing the wonderful John Keawe play slack key and his beautiful wife Hope dance the hula. Sounds like a perfect day to me..... |
|
|
|
ypochris
Lokahi
USA
398 Posts |
Posted - 04/08/2012 : 07:08:38 AM
|
Hapuna is indeed a beautiful beach, but very crowded- particularly since they built a hotel on the north end, which tries to discourage the public from using that side of the beach by covering it with beach chairs. (An interesting side note- this hotel was the subject of a referendum vote. The hotel spent $35,000 per vote to get their way. A problem with a small voter base and really big money.)
Just south of Hapuna is a much smaller, but very nice and less crowded beach on Waialea Bay. This beach is called "Beach 69" by the locals, as the dirt road used to be at telephone post number 69. However, they put in a paved road which is at post 71, as I recall, so the name isn't that appropriate any more. Anyway, I'd suggest this beach instead of, or in addition to, Hapuna if you prefer something less touristed. Just continue down the narrow paved road instead of turning into the actual parking lot of Hapuna, after taking the Hapuna turnoff from the main highway. Of course, this involves taking the coastal road through the lava desert I suggested you avoid above.
The multi-million-dollar homes on Waialea Bay represent a sad story of regulatory failure and the influence of money on the political process also, but it is a fairly long tale so I won't bore you with it.
Walk along the coast a short ways to the north from "69" and there is another little beach, called "67", which is (was?)often empty. Be aware, however, that this beach is considered by the locals to be "clothing optional", so don't go there if nudity bothers you.
If you are in that area anyway, be sure to check out the Pu'ukohola Heiau just to the north, towards Kawaihaie just after the intersection to Waimea. It is the last major heiau built on the island, and is very impressive from the sea. You used to be able to admire it from the breakwater, getting an idea of the impression it was intended to make, but last I was there the harbor had been shut down to the public because of the "Homeland Security" BS.
On the right, before the heiau, be sure to admire the "chicken coops"- public "transitional" housing built for hotel workers at twice the cost per unit that I spent on my very nice home.
Spencer Park, below the heiau, is another nice little beach popular with the locals, which used to have great diving but became very murky. Millions of dollars have been spent recently to restore the watershed, so the water may be better now. While pleasant during the day, I don't recommend camping there, as the nearby war heiau seems to affect it and there is (for the Big Island) a lot of violence there at night.
And that is a brief overview of a few of miles of the 360 mile coastline of the island, although there is a lot more even in that little stretch- a couple more beaches, hotels, golf courses, cheap cabins to rent, springs, lobster holes, reefs, surf spots, fruit groves, and on and on... |
|
|
|
Konabob
`Olu`olu
USA
928 Posts |
Posted - 04/08/2012 : 07:48:17 AM
|
Chris, its time for you to take a vacation back out this way. What year did you leave the Big Island? The Chicken Coops are long gone. There is a paved access to Waialea Bay, and I 69 is no longer the wild place it once was. Camping is no longer a problem at Spencer. It has been fixed up too. The Big Island is slowly upgrading things. Heck, there is a 6 lane highway through Kailua-Kona (for a few blocks, anyway) and there are two really nice subdivision in Kealakehe that were put in for Hawaiian families. Just last week we noticed a sign that Pier 1 is opening up a place. 50% of the people are happy about all these changes, 50% are sad. Life goes on.
Aloha,
-Konabob
|
Konabob's Walkingbass - http://www.konawalkingbass.com
Taropatch Steel - http://www.konaweb.com/konabob/
YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=Konabob2+Walkingbass |
|
|
|
ypochris
Lokahi
USA
398 Posts |
Posted - 04/08/2012 : 08:59:12 AM
|
I get back to visit my family now and agin, but the last time I made it to that area was right after they put in the paved road to Waialea- 2006? Anyway, I put a hole in the oil pan of the rental car there, pulling off the road to let a truck by, so we never made it past Hapuna- had to get to the airport that evening.
On the bright side, we do have three weeks planned there for July- it will, of course, mostly be family time, but perhaps we will be able to get around a bit.
I'm afraid I generally fall into the category of those who don't like the development- I preferred it more wild. Kona, especially, has changed beyond recognition. Although I can't even remember the last time I was there- the closest I would get when I lived there towards the end was Costco, because the traffic was impassible past Hinalani street. If I had to get past Kona, I always took the Mamalahoa highway, through Holualoa.
I do enjoy your webcam on occasion, though! |
|
|
|
Konabob
`Olu`olu
USA
928 Posts |
|
|
dagan
Aloha
37 Posts |
Posted - 04/08/2012 : 5:36:55 PM
|
| Waialea bay is a small beach that has more tourists than locals visiting there. Hapuna is a HUGE beach so it is not crowded at all, plenty of space to spread out. Spencer beach park is 100% safe and actually a great place for visitors to camp. |
www.daganb.wordpress.com
www.paniolomusic.com |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
|
|
Big Island
