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wcerto
Ahonui
USA
5052 Posts |
 Posted - 07/04/2009 : 07:44:10 AM
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Many of you may have viewed videos on You Tube posted by Hokulani78. He has done a great amount of historical research into all things Hawaiian as well as history of all island peoples of the Pacific. You may have seen his films on "Quotes of Ka`iulana" or "Hawai`i`s First Queen". You may check out his you tube channel Hokulani78.
I have had some correspondence with him about clothing items such as the helmets worn by warriors as well as the ali`i, such as reasons for the shape, how they were made, etc. We also discussed differing designs of malo and proper protocol for wearing pa`u.
Here is some wonderful information that he has given me permission to share with you:
My mother actually still makes those kinds of things so I'm also familiar with the production process.
Now with nā po`e kahikō, the people of old, there were several types of helmets. There are three distinctive classes of helments: mahiole, `a`ahu a po`o, and haka. I think most people are familiar with the mahiole ipu or mū and unfortunately refer to it nowadays as "ikaika helmets". Those were made of gourds that were grown to appropriate size, then drilled (with a hand shell drill), then decorated either with dried fern leaves and sometimes had burned designs itched on them (normally the same patterns found in tattoos and tapa). These mahiole were actually not used for war (as some think nowadays) but as part of ceremonies--normally associated with the makahiki, so they were ritual items. We know that they were not made for war because if you ever wore one, you can't hear a thing. It would be impractical to wear such a helmet since it also limits your visibility. From what gather from Cook and Vancouver, they were used by a class of priests that were skilled in lua and who were involved in the retelling of the story of the gods (which was part o the Makahiki rituals as well as some of the rituals that invoked Kū). There's of course two other things here that most people don't know. One, these "ikaika helmets" were not made of feathers. Old Hawaiians would have been aghast at the misuse of feathers since feathers were a form of currency. Second, the Makahiki rituals were not simply walking around the island with the staff of Lono. These rituals include ritual bathing (hi'uwai--there actually was a formal day of cleansing for all people and another formal day for cleansing the heiau), puppet plays, morality plays, hula, and lastly the Makahiki ended with a procession where Lono is sent away again and Kū images were restored.
`A`ahu a po`o were helmets made of dried vines (varied but these included Kauna'oa, huehue, pohuehue, and sometimes even `olena) and very carefully woven together (usually after being soaked in sea water then dried then soaked again then dried again). These did not have feathers and normally were worn by lower ranking ali'i (like the ali'i 'ai 'ahupua) and lua practitioners (who were also often hula dancers as well) as well as sometimes by priests but in a different shape. Sometimes these were also given as gifts from the ali`i to maka`ainana who were skilled artisans. So usually these helmets are associated with priests, lua, district chiefs, and sometimes artisans or craft experts.
Haka are the feather helmets used by more higher ranking chiefs and contained feathers. These were made of the same materials as the `a`ahu a po`o but had feathers woven into the helmet. These were worn at all major state occasions and in war. Each feather cape and helmet is unique and was specially made for the wearer. Sometimes these capes and helmets were considered so precious that they were buried with the wearer. The shape of the haka was usually in a crest or rainbow--symbolizing the union of god and man or pi`o. You'll have other shapes that are the same as the `a`ahu a po`o.
Generally all the shapes of helmets, materials used, and colors helps identify which kapu the wearer has, his class, and his function in society.
As for malo, the malo is a very good example of Western sexual aesthetics versus Hawaiian sexual aesthetics. For most Westerners, the part of the body that should be covered up is the buttocks and the genitals. In English, we refer to those as "the private parts". In Hawaiian, those were not the private parts. Hawaiian regarded the private parts to be the inner thigh and hips. That's why male malos covered more of the thigh than the male parts and why female malos were wrapped around and covered the hips. That's also why in hula, you have periodic flashing of the thighs (`uwehe) and hip revolutions ('ami). Our ancestors had a very strict society. But they were also rascals as well. Such moves in hula represents fertility (not to mention much more exciting). Usually they were used in name chants and hula ma`i to symbolize that the person who the chant honored was fertile. That's also why in hula you have the puffy skirts. The puffy skirts represents the hips and is a reference to fertility. That's also why the kikepa was seen as more of a formal attire (therefore appropriate for ali'i and priests officiating at ceremonies) because the kikepa of those days went from right shoulder to past the knees. So it covered the hips and the thighs. There also was the feather malos but that's another email.
Your kumu is historically correct in her knowledge of Hawaiian hula attire. It should be worn at the waist (or at the belly button as you can see in old hula photos from Kalakaua's time) so that it completely covers the hips and/or inner thigh. The Hawaiian idea of what was appropriate dress is so different from the Western point of view. I mean for example, old Hawaiians did not see a problem with men and women being topless. But when you look at the old photos and old pictures drawn by pre-missionaries Westerners, the hips and inner thighs were covered. Rarely also were these parts tattooed. Even after the missionaries, some of that sense was left. If you notice in pictures of Hawaiian males, you will notice that they wore their pants "high water" at around the same placement they would have worn a malo. Today, when men try to re-enact our ancestors' ceremonies and don malos, they wear it at a much lower level than Hawaiians would have in the ancient days--because the sensibility is to wear it lower to hide more of the male parts whereas the ancient sensibility would be to hide more of the thigh parts not to mention in American society, men and women generally wear their clothes at the "low water" level--I mean look like the popularization of thongs. But also if you notice the ki'i, their legs are spread apart but what part is not exposed? The inner thigh. Often the male or female parts are shown but the inner thighs remain closed. That's actually one way you can tell the age of a ki'i. Ki'i made in this century often expose the inner thigh (with knees pointed in two directions) whereas ki'i of the previous generations would have the knees bending but the inner thigh not very exposed and both knees point in the same direction. Often Ki'i were covered in a kikepa and malo as well. Well I can go on and on about ki'i as well since that's one of my favorite subjects since most people don't appreciate how much philosophy goes into just the process of making a ki'i.
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Me ke aloha
Malama pono,
Wanda |
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Hawaiian helmets, malo and pa`u
